We are quilting with our APQS Freedom Machine,
Affectionately named "Freddy"
Our Quilting Services include:
Longarm Quilting T-Shirt Quilts Custom Quilts
We finish your quilt by layering your top, batting and backing on our longarm frame and free-motion or computer-aided machine quilting thread designs to stabilize your beautiful top into a quilt. You bind the edges or we can. Please read "Preparation Info" below.
We have added a computer to our longarm in order to offer more design possibilities and quicker turn-around time. We still offer free motion edge-to-edge and custom designs and will continue to do our meander by hand.
|Intelliquilter Computer Aided Designs or Free-Motion Designs:
||$ .028 per square inch. $50 minimum
|Designs with different borders designs or added motif:
||$ .03 per square inch $75 minimum
|Ruler work/ block designs designs:
|| $ .03 - .07 per square inch* depending on complexity ($75 minimum)
$ .15 per linear inch (machine applied) /$.10 per linear inch for one side only when you hand stitch one side.
$ Cost varies by type of batting, approximately
$13.99/yd and up for cotton,
$15.99/ yd bamboo/cotton blend,
$24.99/yd Wool blend
$3 per bobbin (ranges from 3-12 bobbins depending on size and quilting design)
|A non-refundable deposit of $50-75 on longarm quilting is required
||In addition, the client will pay upfront for the cost of materials provided, such as batting or backing. The remainder of the balance will be due upon completion and pick-up or prior to delivery.
|Turnaround / Completion
Turn-around time is approximate, depending on shop schedules and number of quilts ahead of yours. It could be 2 months or more. Please keep the timeline in mind as you are preparing your quilt top. **If you have a rush, we can do it after hours for an additional fee. ** Rush Fee is additional 25% of quilting fee.
*** Christmas deadlines for guarantee before Christmas is October 15.
We will not take Rush jobs during this time because everyone is in a hurry to get their projects finished. ***
NOTE: Every one of us have a quilt now and then with lots of bias or we weren't careful with measurements or sewing. We all find occasional seams coming loose, wavy borders or puckers. I'd love to be able to 'Quilt It Out' as the saying goes. I know some tricks and work-arounds that might make it nearly invisible, but depending on what and where in the quilt, it can still be noticeable. Unless you tell me 'quilt it like it is', I will let you know what the difficulty was in the quilting. Once it's on the frame and partially quilted, taking it off to make repairs will add a fee for reloading. The choice is yours. Read below for helpful hints.
All About Long-Arm Quilting
From the Top
Is the quilt clean? We love to quilt old quilt tops that belonged to mothers, grandmothers or were from tag sales, but if they're dirty or smelly, please consider hand washing the top and laying out of the sun to dry. Press it well and bring it in! We'll finish it up for you to cherish.
Are there open seams? We all get in a hurry and get short on our seam allowances, so please check the top over for open seams.
Are the thread ends trimmed? Stray threads can show through the finished quilt and detract from the beauty of your finished quilt.
Is the quilt top pressed so the seams are flat? This is really important and can make a big difference in the final look of the quilt. It is okay if some of the seams are twisted; that happens when you quilt. But you really want to iron them as flat as you can. Iron from the finished side (the front), and if you use starch or sizing it will be especially appreciated.
Is the quilt top squared? Measure across each of 4 sides and then across the middle both directions. If quilt is 1/4—1/2 inch difference from corresponding sides then I can quilt in the fullness, but over an inch then the more chance of wrinkles quilted in.
Does your quilt lay flat? Lay your quilt flat on a bed or floor and see if the blocks lay flat. If they do, you have my utmost admiration! If they don’t, welcome to the club! You could take the whole quilt apart and go back and cut all your blocks to make sure they all lay flat, but that is way too much work and probably not worth the time, unless you plan for this to be a show quilt.
Do you need a T-shirt Quilt quilted? We can meander your quilt top in a way to not take away from the cool T-shirt designs and sayings. We do ask that you use a woven stabilizer behind your T-shirts because otherwise the T-shirts stretch and tend to pucker. We can't do anything about that once it is on the frame, so please consider this as you're making your T-shirt quilt.
All About Borders
Don’t cut borders until you’ve measured your quilt. Cut your borders to fit your quilt, and don’t ease in fullness of borders if more than 1/4 inch difference.
Back to Back
Your quilt back should be at least 8” longer and wider than your quilt top on each side (4” all around). I will use that fabric to attach the quilt to the bars and side clamps of the frame. Also, backs and batting tend to draw up during the quilting process.
If you piece your backing, make sure to trim the selvages off as they shrink unevenly when you wash the quilt and create a puckered line. Use a 1/2- 5/8” seam and press the seam open. That will minimize the bulk as the quilt is rolled back on the frame and minimizes any resulting waves.
If you create a designed back with blocks and borders, please do not try to make it symmetrical, especially with borders. Try as we may, because we cannot see the back as we're quilting, we won't necessarily be able to center the back exactly. Instead add offset strips. We must mount the majority of seam lines horizontally on the frame to minimize the pull at the seam line and therefore may be quilting the top on its side if the seam runs vertically on the quilt back.
Square up your quilt back. If it is longer on one side than the opposite side, your quilter will have to square it up before she can attach it to her frame. You can do this by folding it in quarters and using your rotary cutter and rulers to trim it even. Just make sure the back ends up at least 8” longer and wider than the quilt top.
Mark center top of back and top if preference of how to load. I put the backing seams horizontal on my frame to minimize fullness, so take that into account when desiring a directional quilt design.
Design ideas - We have well over 450 designs on hand
Meanders, flowers, hearts, animals, ocean, western, Texas, leaves, feathers, holidays, baby, children, guys